The wiimote is not an analogue stick and more of an absolute position sensor (why you can spin the thing around) based on gravity and some kind of motion sensor inside it, plus the whole infrared camera on the front tracking the position of the sensor bar (sensor bar is some infrared LEDs - point a digital camera at one if you have never done it, also why putting a couple of candles in front of the TV works instead). Can be a switch (several hundred individual lines to measure where something is), magnetic (series of magnets or possibly strength thereof), optical (see scroll wheels in your mouse or the little strip of what at first looks like clear plastic that runs the length of the average inkjet printer (actually is an optical encoding strip that the sensor can determine position in). Usually carbon traces and some kind of wiper, how stick drift mostly happens and why opening up some controllers looks like someone ground a pencil lead up inside it.ī) Some kind position sensor. If you have ever done the resistor divider voltage dropper in electronics classes and expanded that to include a variable resistor to change output then pretty much this. There are two broad schools of thought for analogue sticks, though you will also meet another for the wii as it is not strictly an analogue stick.Ī) Some kind of resistance. The main trouble however is likely to come in analogue sticks. The principle works however for this as well, and might not even need a little brain box unless you want one for turbo, easy remapping (you can do basic remapping easily enough with switches), macros or the like. However this sort of thing you are dodging by cannibalising a wiimote, nunchuck, cheapo/broken classic controller or whatever. Those little magic adapter boxes will need to know things here and adapt signals accordingly, the little teensy++ noted on the link above being able to do this. Typically you have serial, parallel and more complicated network/packet type arrangements. *at this point we could cover the brains of controllers. It is much the same whether you are doing a dpad and single button controller for some hypothetical old console or a 600 key keyboard. This is how some choose to adapt old console controllers to the PC Slice out the brains of the operation* leaving the whole board as little more than a glorified switch box. On the flip side the nature of switches (and possibly debug points) also works the other way. Scraping solder mask and soldering to traces is obviously more annoying than soldering to a nice fat test point that is there ready to take solder but if needs must. This tends to be more used where there are no debug points (vanishingly rare as testing is kind of useful) or they are in too awkward a position to get wires to and still have a working controller). Slice into the traces and solder wires on and you can throw buttons wherever. That is to say they are pressed or the they are not. Controllers need to be tested in the factory so nearby the buttons on a controller will tend to be small points that both can take a signal in (confirming the brains part is working for that button) and show signal out when the button is pressed.Ģ) Buttons are usually little more than glorified switches. Click to expand.Search around for controller mods on essentially any console and you will find ones to do turbo buttons, remapping buttons, macro inputs (though these are marginally more complicated), external buttons for disabled persons controllers/arcade type setups/fight sticks and such.ġ) Debug points/test points.
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